The Player who Gets Played 33. The Big Wave

It has been two damn weeks, and I was really looking forward to our next weekend together. We were both have been extremely busy. And I was at a stage where I was ready to give up my surfing career, just to be near her all the time.

I couldn't concentrate, she was always on my mind. The sexy text, calls, and video chats could only cure a few hours of the day. But then I was quick to miss her again.

"I'm retiring after this championship, Clara. I'm taking control of my life. I want to settle down, I think she is it. No, I know she's the one."

Clara and I were conversing, just before my first round of the competition. The wind was strong, the waves were high. Other competitors were excited to take on the biggest waves. I was one of the seniors participating in that round, and I was definitely not at my best set of mind.

"It's your choice ultimately Allen, but yes...I think it's wise to back down gracefully and let the younger guys compete. You have so much more to explore, aside from the competition anyway. And I could see how Louise affected you. So, as a friend yes...I agree with your choice. I'll arrange everything, and will advise you the best way to close this chapter of your life."

"Thanks, now I just have to rock this wave and we'll settle it later. And don't forget to set the press conference... just tell them I'm pursuing other opportunities."

She smiled and patted my back, telling me good luck as always. Then we parted moments later. I exhaled seeing the great waves rolling high, carried by the strong wind. I didn't expect the waves to be this big, nature would sometimes have its own ways of creating greatness.

I decided to wear my inflatable vest. I was not taking any chances. Seeing the big grand waves, I was confident enough to ride the wave. That was why moments later, I started to concentrate on preparing my Patagonia inflation vest for the big wave. I Inspected and checked each cartridge, each lid, each trigger arm, and obviously the cords.

I always do my personal checks before I hit the big waves, and that day the waves were high at best. And I was not stupid enough to risk my life drowning in the wipeout or even breaking my neck trying to avoid the wave. I was calculating my moves. I was watching the waves pattern, just like several other participants.

There were lots of ohs and ahs coming from the spectator, more were cursing looking at the surfers who get sucked under the waves. Jet ski crews were busy pulling them out from the raging ocean waves. Some newer contestants were hurriedly taken to the EMT's vehicles, which were prepared exactly for these kinds of emergency situations.

Then the time came for me. It was my stage, it was my moment. I took my board, and walk into the ocean. Then start paddling on my board, when my feet were off the ocean floor.

The rush was exhilarating, the thrill was picking up as I waited sitting on the board. I was quietly calculating and waiting for the big wave when it came seconds later. I was smiling and paddling into it, pushing my board into the big wave. Trying to rush, and race into the incoming tide.

I was riding it as it curled, I was under it smoothly surfing my way under the grand arch of the immense water. I was racing it to the end of the wave. But nature was not on my side that day, I was seconds too late to hit the perfect end when I was quickly sucked into the tide. Another wave had come rolling in from above me. It hit me hard, it drowned me deep under the surface.

I hurriedly pulled the handle from my right chest, when I was quickly sucked five meters deeper into the ocean. Then in seconds, my body was pulled up from the inflation vest. My equilibrium was out of place, all I could see was darkness, and out of nowhere Lou... my chest was starting to hurt from the lack of oxygen. I pulled the dump handle, trying to deflate and control my way up.

But then another wave hit me, seconds after I finally surfaced and inhaled the fresh ocean air. I was pushed down deeper, I was struggling to pull the handle to my left. But then I hunched in pain when I realize that my left arm was wounded, most likely broken from the previous strong impact.

I eventually reached for the left handle with my right hand. I pulled it at the exact time as another wave pushed my body away from the surface. I was at the mercy of the vast ocean, and there was nothing I could do but to relax my body. I was trying my best to regulate my breathing, saving my energy and the air in my lungs.

Louise was all I could think about, I was so close to ending this. I should've gone with my gut, and chased her, and left everything behind. Now I might actually die, I might actually leave her, leave our baby. God please...just this one time...

I had never wished for something that hard. I could feel my body was floating as I was washed away from the wave. I didn't know how long I had been floating on my back, I must've fainted from the lack of oxygen. My body ached all over when I was pulled into a boat. I couldn't remember anything, I was so numbed that my body shut down.

My eyes tried to open but the pain was too immense, making me pull back into the darkness. I'm so sorry Louise...

*****

"Oh thank God... Allen bro, wake up..."

I could hear him, I tried to look to where his voice was originated. But it hurts too damn much.

Then my eyes opened, I was looking into the white ceiling. I could hear the steady beeping sounds of machines. I must be in the hospital.

And that was when I saw her. She was beautiful, oh... I've missed her so much. She was caressing my face, she was crying but my eyes were suddenly heavy and I lost her again.

Louise...baby...I'm so sorry...

I don't know how long I was in and out of consciousness, but she was there every time I opened my eyes. She looked beautiful, I tried to reach for her but fail every damn time.

God...please...

Louise...I love you, baby...